English Bulldogs are considered the Lazy Man’s Breed. Minimal exercise is all that is needed for
them to remain healthy. Although it is important to give them a walk every day, try not to travel long
distances (around the block is good) and try not to walk the Bulldog in extreme heat and/or
humidity. English Bulldogs are very susceptible to overheating. Be sure to always have fresh water
available to them. English Bulldogs have a very small trachea (throat opening) and because of this it
is not uncommon for them to hack and cough after they run – this is due to a build up of
saliva/mucous that accumulates in their throat. Most times they cough it out and they are okay, but
if they continue to choke, you may want to squirt a little concentrated lemon juice into their throat.
The lemon juice breaks up the mucous allowing them to breathe better. Please don’t kennel an
English bulldog. English Bulldogs are people dogs – they love the company of humans and are
happiest when sleeping near and hanging around their master. Kenneling or caging for short periods
of time (housebreaking, running to the store, etc.) is okay – just not all the time. Treat and care for
them as if they were your own child. The more your English Bulldog is exposed to humans the
better his/her confidence and disposition will develop. You should never leave your bulldog
unattended for long periods in a backyard etc. This can be dangerous for your dog. They could get
into dangerous situations that you may not realize until it’s too late. Also English Bulldogs are
expensive making them prime candidates for thieves.
BRUSHING
Brushing is very important in the care of your English Bulldog. This removes dust, traces of dirt or
soil, and dead hair. It is recommended that they be brushed once a day. Since Bulldog’s have
sensitive skin and short fur, brushing the bulldog should be done with a soft bristled brush or comb.
It is preferred that using a brush with round plastic balls at the end of each bristle be used. Run the
brush against your own skin – if it hurts or stings, chances are it will feel the same to your bulldog.
BATHING
Puppies can be bathed when quite young (three months old). For dogs this age, the room
temperature must be 68 degrees Fahrenheit. Since English Bulldogs are usually indoor dogs, a bath
once every month or two is recommended. You should bathe your English bulldog in an indoor
bathtub. Avoid bathing your dog too much as this takes away the natural oils in the skin that the dog
needs to regulate its body temperature. Taking away these oils makes the dog susceptible to the cold
as well as parasites. It takes approximately 6 weeks for this natural oil to fully return to the skin and
coat, therefore, it is wise to use special dog shampoo that contains parasite repellents. Avoid
shampoo’s and toilet soaps made for humans. A PH balanced baby shampoo that does not sting the
eyes is okay if used only occasionally. When bathing your bulldog avoid getting the shampoo in
his/her eyes and ears. Cotton swabs in the ears can be used as a precaution. Use warm water (95
degrees F) and wet the dog from head to tail. Apply shampoo and begin washing in the neck area
first and work your way to the tail (this technique prevents fleas, if any, from traveling to the head
region). Washing under the Bulldog’s tail is also important, especially if the tail is a corkscrew
shape. If the dog’s tail is very tight, use a Q Tip to get under it. Washing between the dog’s toes is
also very important. Dirt and/or bacteria caught between the toes can cause an infection. Rinse off
the dog making sure to remove all shampoo. If necessary repeat the entire process. Once you have
finished rinsing the dog, without delay take the dog out of the bathtub and dry the dog off
vigorously with a warm towel. You can use a hair dryer (set to medium) to finish the drying
process if you prefer. If the weather is cold, please allow the dog to remain in the house for several
hours before allowing him/her to go outside. In hot weather, dry the dog as best you can and allow
the dog to shake themselves off outside.
FACE
Because of the structure of the bulldog’s face, special attention must be taken. Between the folds of
skin should be cleaned at least once a week. It is possible that an infection could occur between
these folds if dirt filled with bacteria linger. Washing with dog soap and water on a Q Tip or cotton
ball will do. Be sure to dry this area when done so that moisture is not allowed to be trapped – this
can also cause an infection or irritation. If an infection becomes apparent, treat with Sudocreme or
Neosporin. If it is just irritated, apply some Vaseline or better yet, Desitin.
If your Bulldog has a white or light colored face, tear stains may become a problem. This may be
attributed to the red coloring in the food he’s eating but this is not always the case, some bulldogs
produce red tears and some don’t, those with white faces will have these stains more than dark
colored faces. Several manufacturers make solutions (for example; Crystal Clear and Diamond Eye)
which can be applied using a Q tip or cotton swab to remove this staining. In my experience these
products only lighten the stains and don’t ever rid the stains unless you find the main cause of the
tear stains and solve that problem first, the stains only return and sometimes return worse than
before. You can do one of two possibilities to completely remove the tear stains;
1) A daily wipe with "Optrex" eye lotion wash will help. Optrex may be found at your local
Pharmacy or purchased through internet pharmaceutical stores. Optrex contains boric acid and
witch-hazel which will break up the stain and will not harm the dogs eyes as this solution is made
specifically for use in the eyes.
2) Or -- If the Optrex doesn't work, make and use this recipe;
* 2 tsp Milk Of Magnesia (white)
* 3 tsp Peroxide (Human Hair Type - 20 volume)
* 1 tsp Corn Starch
Add all the ingredients above and mix well. If you want to make the paste thicker, just add a little
more corn starch but be careful not to use too much that you turn the remedy into a powder. Only
make enough for one application. Clean and dry the stained area and apply this paste to the tear
stains using a clean cotton swab or Q tip and avoid getting it into the dog’s eyes - let dry overnight.
Wash off the paste and condition the area - dry with cloth. Lastly, apply a thin coat of one of the
following: Desitin, Boric Acid Ointment or Bag Balm to prevent a possible rash. Repeat this process
every day until the stains are gone. It is recommended that if the stains don’t disappear by the
second application; take a 1 day break before starting treatment again. This is just to give your dog a
break. Once the tear stains are removed you can limit the number of treatments down to once a
week depending on how fast the tear stains may return.
3) And -- Add 1 teaspoon of Apple Cider Vinegar per quart of water to dogs water bowl. This is
supposed to adjust the PH of the dog’s body and prevent staining from tears or saliva. This is also
said to discourage fleas. At first you may want to start with smaller doses of vinegar and work your
way up to the 1 teaspoon per quart - this adjusts the dog into accepting the water for drinking.
4) And/or-- Add Tylan (an amount equivalent to a match head) to dog’s food a few times a week.
This will keep the area dry and stain free.
EARS
Use a Q Tip with antiseptic to clean the inside of the bulldog’s ears. Never use soap and water. 60%
Alcohol or ether can also be used. This is important as the dog’s ears get very dirty. Only use the Q
Tip in areas that you can visually see, in other words, don’t shove the Q Tip way inside the dog’s
ear. This cleaning should be done at least once a week. Look for ear mites and ticks when cleaning
the ears. If ear mites are present, you will need to treat the dog with Miticide. Ticks can be removed
by dripping drops of alcohol on them. Visit a Veterinarian if you don’t want to remove these
parasites yourself.
NOSE:
Occasionally the Bulldog’s nose may dry out. To prevent this, rub a little Vaseline on his/her nose. I
do this once a week whether they need it or not.
PAWS
Clean and check your dog’s paws often. Make sure there is no gravel lodged in the pad, no thorns
between the toes, and no chewing gum stuck on the sole of the paw. If you see that your dog
spends hours licking his/her paw, check the paw to see the problem. Remove the cause of the
discomfort, or if you see a cyst and/or infection between toes, take the dog to a veterinarian.
TEETH
Check the condition of your dog’s teeth once a week. If you like, you can clean the dog’s teeth
with a damp cloth soaked in baking soda solution or lemon juice. There are actual toothpastes on the
market made especially for dogs. I found that you really don’t need to brush your dog’s teeth as
long as you supply them with things to chew on; chew toys, steak bones, rawhide bones, etc. Their
teeth will naturally cut and clean if you do this. Feeding your dog dry food also helps. If you feed
your dog wet food ONLY you may want to consider brushing the dog’s teeth.
NAILS
As needed, clip the dog’s toe nails. If they are left unclipped, accidental injury to others and to the
bulldog may occur when the dog plays etc. If your bulldog walks on hard surfaces, such as
sidewalks every day, its nails will be worn down naturally. If your dog does not walk on hard
surfaces (carpets etc.) or seldom goes for walks outside, make sure the dog’s nails do not grow to
long. Clipping nails is not as simple as it sounds. There is a risk of bleeding if not done right. Be
sure not to cut the quick (this is the vein that runs up inside the nail from the toe). If your dog has
white nails, the quick is easy to see and you can trim the nails with clippers. Cut the nail
approximately 2 millimeters above the quick.
If your dog’s nails are dark, seeing the quick will be difficult, therefore, make several small cuts
until you see a small black spot appear in the center of the nail and then stop cutting. If by chance
you accidentally cut the quick you can use silver nitrate to stop the bleeding. Take your bulldog to a
Dog Groomer or Veterinarian if you are uncomfortable doing this task yourself. If the dog’s nails
are grown curling past the pads of the toes, then they need to be clipped. Be sure to always check
the Dew Claw as this nail never actually touches the ground; therefore, this nail always needs to be
cut at some point. If you are using a guillotine type clipper always clip the nail with the cutting blade
facing away from the paw and the nameplate and screw toward the paw. Place your bulldog on a
table to clip his/her nails. Dogs tend not to struggle in this situation, making the clipping process
much easier.
Many medications can be administered by you at home. Just be sure that all medications are cleared
by your vet and that you provide the correct doses. To administer pills to your Bulldog, put your
hand under the Bulldog’s chin and place your index finger and your thumb on opposite sides of
his/her mouth. Firmly press the dog’s lips against the teeth. This technique will force the dog to
open its mouth. Once the mouth is open, place the pill on the back of the tongue and then quickly
close the dog’s mouth. Hold the mouth shut and massage the bulldog’s neck. This helps to ensure
the pill gets swallowed. I find it easier to just wrap a morsel of meat or processed cheese around the
pill and let the bulldog eat it on his/her own. To administer liquid medications, the same technique
above is used with the exception that the liquid should be squirted on the tongue by use of a syringe
(without needle of course).
DE-WORMING
Your dog can be infected with worms. Some worms you may visually see in your dog’s feces. The
most common are Hookworms and Roundworms. Others you may not see such as Heartworms
and Tapeworms. It is important to rid and/or protect your dog from these worms. There are several
worming medications on the market that will take care of all these worms. Of all the worms,
Heartworms are the most dangerous to your dog. Heartworms wrap themselves around the dog’s
heart and can eventually cause death. Heartworm medication must be prescribed by a veterinarian.
The easiest thing to do is to get the medication that will not only destroy and prevent Heartworms
but all the worms. Be sure to give your bulldog this worming medication as prescribed all year
round for the life of your dog.
FLEAS AND TICKS
Fleas and ticks are one of the most common of parasites that can hurt your dog. Both fleas and
ticks are blood suckers and depending on the size of your dog a large infestation of one or both of
these parasites can make your dog ill and even cause death. Your veterinarian can provide you with
medication that can rid and/or prevent your dog of fleas and ticks. Pet shops and stores selling pet
supplies also sell over the counter flea and tick products – collars, liquids and sprays. Although
some of these work well, they tend not to last very long so you may want to consider what type of
product or medication you may want to use.
Brewers Yeast with garlic is also a deterrent. These tablets tend to ward off fleas and ticks because
of the garlic in the blood stream. The Brewers yeast is good for the dog's coat. Most dogs love the
taste of them and will eat the tablets without a problem. Give 1 tablet per 10 pounds of body weight
per day. Brewers Yeast tablets are safe and can be used in conjunction with any other flea
medication or repellent you are using.
DIARRHEA
Your bulldog may experience diarrhea. Diarrhea is not a disease but possibly a symptom of many
other diseases. Most of the time diarrhea is not serious. Usually diarrhea is brought on by eating
garbage or some other nasty morsel. Other minor causes are stomach or intestinal viruses. You can
usually treat your pet at home for this type of diarrhea. Time is usually the best cure, but you can
give your dog a medicine such as Kaopectate. Give your dog 0.5 to 1.0 ml per pound of body
weight every 2 to 6 hours. You will need to make sure that your bulldog does not get dehydrated.
You can give him/her a sports drink in his water dish to guard against loss of nutrients. Do not feed
your dog any table scraps or treats while he/she is suffering from diarrhea.
Your dog’s diarrhea may be serious if any of the following additional symptoms are present.
* Vomiting
* Dehydration
* Loss of appetite * Abdominal pain
* Bloody diarrhea * Watery diarrhea
If the diarrhea is occurring in conjunction with one or more of the symptoms above, you should
bring your bulldog to your veterinarian for a diagnosis.
At first, your dog will not like being washed, Q tipped, nail clipped, and medicated, but if you stick
to a schedule and do these things often, your dog will grow to accept these as his daily life and you
will not have a problem with him/her.
ITCHY SKIN
Probably an allergy, possibly the food you are feeding - If this cannot be controlled by diet then you
may need to see your vet.
CHERRY EYE
Where the gland under the third eyelid protrudes and looks rather like a cherry in the corner of the
eye. Your vet will need to remove the gland (some prefer to tuck). Occasionally removal of the
gland causes dry eye. However, most vets today can remove the cherry eye leaving just a small
section of the tear gland to prevent the dry eye from occurring. This small tear gland usually creates
more tears to compensate thus never causing the dry eye. Other than the antibiotic cream given to
you by the vet after removal , do not apply drops of saline thinking you are helping the dog from
getting dry eye. In actuality you may be driving the eye to dependency of the drops and you will
have to give the drops for the rest of the dogs life. Allow the small tear gland that is left to
compensate. I recommend the removal of the cherry eye rather than tucking (tucking is basically
where the cherry eye is stitched behind the eyelid). My experience is that 75% of all tucking
becomes unstitched during play etc thus bringing the cherry back out.
ENTROPIAN
Where the eyelashes have turned inwards and are rubbing against the eye, again surgery may be
required. Don’t confuse this with stray eyelashes that are just growing astray, these can be plucked
with tweezers (you may prefer your vet to do this). E>ntropian needs surgery - if left the in-turned
lashes will scratch the cornea and the result will be a severely damaged eye, at worst blindness or
loss of eye.
CONJUNCTIVITIS
You will need to obtain a cream from your vet to apply to the affected eye, repeated bouts of
conjunctivitis can cause the dog to retract the eyeball which in severe cases can lead to entropion.
HEAD SHAKES
Something like a fit, but effecting just the head, which will involuntary shake from side to side,
sometimes violently enough to cause their lips to flap. This can be linked to stress which may cause
the blood sugar level to drop enough to trigger the head shake. Giving some glucose or honey to
bring the blood sugar level back up should help although distraction often stops the shaking. If you
are unable to link the attack to a specific stressful incident then your bulldog may be suffering and is
advisable that you get your vet to check him over. Note, many vets are unfamiliar with this breeds
specific condition and some breeders attribute them to a lack of calcium as they are common in the
pregnant or nursing bitch. However please do not give calcium under normal circumstances as this
could effect the bone formation of your puppy.
DEVELOPMENT PROBLEMS
Because of the bulldog’s rapid growth it is very important that you keep play and exercise properly
managed in the first 9 months, early joint damage could be permanent and may lead to osteoarthritis,
irregular growth in the bones could lead to joint deformities. Hip/elbow displaysia is genetic but can
be encouraged via environmental factors (ie: slidey floors, jumping etc). Fairly often puppy limping
will disappear at maturity and is usually due to the rapid growth spurts or an incorrect diet. Diet
plays a large role in bone development, because of the rapid growth of the bulldog it is wise to feed
your puppy adult food (mini chunks) to lower the protein intake. Many dog food manufacturers
recommend that puppy stays on the puppy mix for the first year, but the bulldogs bones don't need
such a high protein intake as it speeds up an already rapid growth and can lead to development
deformities in some cases. The same applies to calcium, don't give puppy any extra calcium - find a
good well balanced dog food and stick to it.
You can help your dog through his puppy limping or Arthritis with a natural product called
"SeaTone" (Extract of Green Lipped Mussel). These can be bought at any Pharmacy. Buy the super
strength and give 1 or 2 capsules per day depending on the severity of the limping, you can either
hide the capsule in a treat or sprinkle over their food (it smells fishy, so they love it). SeaTone is a
natural anti-inflammatory and will help rebuild any defects in the bone. We give this product to our
adult arthritic dogs and have never had the need to use a prescribed arthritis drug yet. We have also
given it to young pups going through their "stiff" stages and always give it to any dog that is
recovering from joint surgery (ie: *Ruptured Cruciate Ligament). Remember though, that any form
of limping should be checked out by your vet, there are many many things that can cause limping
(see above) although in most cases "SeaTone" will help.
ELONGATED SOFT PALATE AND OTHER AIRWAY DISORDERS:
Every bulldog has an elongated soft palate, this is because of the shape of their heads (ie:
brachycephalic - short nosed). In most cases this causes nothing more than snoring, but in severe
cases will cause your bulldog difficulty in breathing. Heat and exercise will cause loud, gurgly
breathing, (commonly known as "roaring") and your bulldog may appear to be "lazy". The severity
can range from loud breathing when excited, during/after exercise to total exercise intolerance,
regurgitation of food to permanent breathing difficulties. The condition can be corrected with
surgery and you need to be sure that the vet you chose to carry out this surgery totally understand
brachycephalic breeds.
MANGE
TYPES OF MANGE,
DEMODECTIC MANGE, (also called "Red Mange")
Is caused by a microscopic mite called Demodex canis. All dogs raised normally by their mothers possess this mite as mites are transferred
from mother to pup via cuddling during the first few days of life. (After the pup is older it is unable
to pick up demodex mites. Puppies raised by hand, do not ever get demodex mites.) For some
reason, conditions change in certain dogs to allow demodex mites to "gain the upper hand;" the
mites proliferate and can cause serious skin disease. Mites are not transmitted to people or other
dogs except from mother dog to pup as described. Demodectic mange (unlike Sarcoptic mange) is
not contagious.Mites live inside hair follicles - a difficult place for miticides (chemicals that kill
mites) to reach. Mites are a normal residents of dog skin; it is only in some individual dogs that
mites cause problems . DEMODICOSIS -- THE DISEASE ITSELF
Demodectic mange -- also called "demodicosis"-- has three forms:
FORM #1: LOCALIZED
Usually a red, scaly, well-circumscribed lesion on the face or forelegs is present. It generally goes
away on its own. Goodwinol ointment, an insecticide, may be used daily to control localized
demodicosis. Hair regrowth should be evident after about a month of treatment; however, some
localized cases appear "destined" to become generalized and no treatment will prevent this from
occurring.
When ointment is used, rubbing the medication on the area may break off the weaker hairs at the
margin of the lesion. The lesion may thus appear to get larger at first. Antibacterial gels are also
used against localized demodicosis and associated skin infections. Often it is best not to treat this
condition and to simply allow it to resolve on its own
FORM #2: GENERALIZED
The entire dog is affected with patchy fur, skin infections, bald, scaly skin. Most generalized
demodicosis starts as localized demodicosis.
* ADULT ONSET-- Most demodicosis occurs in young dogs. An older dog should not get
deodicosis unless it has an underlying problem with its immune system, possibly even cancer. A
veterinarian should be consulted regarding possible primary diseases.
* JUVENILE ONSET -- 30-50% of dogs under age 1 year recover spontaneously from generalized
demodicosis without any form of treatment. Usually treatment is recommended, though, to facilitate
recovery.
FORM #3: DEMODECTIC PODODERMATITIS
This condition represents demodectic mange confined to the paws. Bacterial infectious usually
accompany this condition. Often as generalized demodicosis is treated, the foot is the last
stronghold of the mite. Old English Sheepdogs and Shar-peis tend to get severe forms of this
condition. The infection can be so deep that biopsy is needed to find the mites and make the
diagnosis.
STRESS AND GENERALIZED DEMODECTIC MANGE
Physiological stress is an important factor determining the degree of severity of demodectic mange.
1. Females should be spayed as soon as the disease is controlled. Coming into heat, hormone fluxes,
and pregnancy are very stressful. Also, predisposition to demodicosis is hereditary and should not
be passed on.
2. The dog should be fed a reputable brand of dog food so as to avoid any nutritionally related
problems.
3. Keep the pet parasite-free. Worms are irritants that the pet need not deal with and fleas may
exacerbate the itchiness and skin infection.
4. Keep up the pet's vaccinations.
5. The mites themselves cause suppression of the immune system so the pet needs every advantage
to stay healthy.
PROGNOSIS
The younger the dog, the better the chance of cure. In many cases of adult-onset demodicosis, the
disease is controlled by dips and baths but cure is not always possible. Some cases can never be
controlled.
TREATMENT OF CHOICE -- IVERMECTIN
Ivermectin is a broad spectrum anti-parasite medication generally used for food animals and horses.
It is licensed for use in dogs and cats as a heartworm preventive and as a topical ear mite therapy at
this time thus the use of this medication to treat demodicosis is not approved by the FDA. When
ivermectin was a new drug it was hoped that it could be used against demodectic mange mites. At
first it was found ineffective but later it was determined that daily doses are needed (most other
parasites can be controlled with wormings spaced several weeks apart.) Ivermectin is inexpensive
relative to Milbemycin and involves no labor intensive bathing. It DOES, however, taste terrible if
given orally (it may be necessary for the owner to learn how to give ivermectin as an injectable
treatment.)
SARCOPTIC MANGE (also called "Scabies")
Is the name for the skin disease caused by infection
with the Sarcoptes scabei mite. Mites are not insects; instead they are more closely related to
spiders. They are microscopic and cannot be seen with the naked eye. Adult Sarcoptes scabei mites
live 3-4 weeks in the host’s skin. After mating, the female burrows into the skin depositing 3-4 eggs
in the tunnel behind her. The eggs hatch in 3-10 days producing a larva which, in turn, moves about
on the skin surface eventually molting into a "nymphal" stage and finally into an adult. The adults
move on the surface of the skin where they mate and the cycle begins again with the female
burrowing and laying eggs.
The motion of the mite in and on the skin is extremely itchy. Further, the presence of mites and
their eggs generates a massive allergic response in the skin which is even more itchy. Mites prefer
hairless skin thus leaving the ear flaps, elbows and abdomen at highest risk for the red, scaley itchy
skin that characterizes sarcoptic mange. It should be noted that this pattern of itching is similar to
that found with airborne allergies (atopy) as well as with food allergies. Frequently, before
attempting to sort out allergies, a veterinarian will simply treat a patient for sarcoptic mange as a
precaution. It is very easy to be led down the wrong path (pursuing allergy aggressively) if one
considers sarcoptic mange an unusual or unlikely possibility.
As the infection progresses, eventually most of the dog's body will be involved. Classically, though,
the picture begins on the ears (especially the ear margins), the elbows, and abdomen.
The term "Scabies" refers to mite infestations by either Sarcoptes scabei or other mite species
closely related to Sarcoptes scabei. While Sarcoptes scabei can infect humans and cats, it tends not
to persist on these hosts.
DIAGNOSIS
When an animal with sarcoptic mange scratches itself, it breaks open the tunnels that the mites have
burrowed into and the mites are killed (though the itch persists due to toxins in the skin). The result
is that the mites can be very difficult to confirm by skin scraping tests. (Probably mites are
confirmed in 50% or fewer of sarcoptic mange cases).
Since negative test results do not rule out mite infection, a "Maybe Mange" test is frequently
performed. This consists simply of treating for sarcoptic mange and observing for resolution of the
signs within 2-4 weeks. Of course, if mite presence is confirmed by skin scraping, then one knows
immediately the cause of the itching and need not be concerned about allergy possibilities or other
diseases and the condition can be addressed with confidence.
BIOPSY - Mange mites are rarely seen on a skin biopsy sample, though, if the sample is read out by
a pathologist who specializes in skin, the type of inflammation seen in the sample can be highly
suggestive of sarcoptic mange. This is an example of a skin disease where it makes a difference
whether the pathologist reading the sample specializes in reading skin samples
TREATMENT
While sarcoptic mange is difficult to diagnose definitively, it is fairly easy to treat and a number of
choices are available.
DIPPING - Anti-bacterial or anti-itch shampoos precede one of several anti-mite dips. Paramite dip
(an organophosphate), Mitaban dip (Amitraz), and Lime-Sulfur dips given weekly are usually
effective. Disease typically resolves within one month. Dips are often used in combination with one
of the other treatments listed below.
IVERMECTIN - This is one of the most effective treatments against Sarcoptes scabei yet is is off-
label as far as the FDA is concerned. There are several protocols due to the very long activity of
this drug in the body. Typically an injection is given either weekly or every two weeks in 1-4 doses.
In most cases this treatment is safe and effective but some individuals have a mutation which makes
ivermectin very toxic at the doses used to kill mites. These individuals are usually of the Collie
family: Collies, Shetland Sheepdogs, and Australian Shepherds are classically affected. There is now
a test that can determine if any dog has the mutation that makes ivermectin use dangerous.
Selamectin is an ivermectin derivative recently marketed for the control of fleas, roundworms,
hookworms, ticks, ear mites and sarcoptic mange mites. Normal monthly use of this product
should prevent a sarcoptic mange problem but to clear an actual infection studies show an extra
dose is usually needed after 2 weeks for reliable results.
GAS
You can sometimes avoid this with diet. Nutro food has almost totally eliminated the gas problem,
but each dog is different. Charcoal Bonio biscuits are great for a windy dog as the charcoal will help
soak up the internal gasses.
Veterinarians,
Please try to find a vet that understands the bulldog, this breed is a hard breed to anaesthetize, so be
sure that the vet you have chosen is aware of this fact and try to only have your bulldog put under
when absolutely necessary. Bulldogs also have very shallow joint sockets and a vet that is unfamiliar
with the breed may misdiagnose these as joint problems. Almost every Bulldog will have a slightly
elongated soft palate which is why they snore, this is because of the shape of their heads and
because the entire throat is being stuffed into a space that is too small in comparison to other breeds
- in severe cases it will restrict your bulldogs ability to breathe and will need surgery (see above
ailments) , but if your dog is comfortable then it’s best to leave it be, so be aware - if your vet
informs you that he needs to resection the soft palate this may not be the case at all. Bulldogs with
severe soft palate problems will overheat easily, find it very difficult to cope with any form of
exercise and may regurgitate their food. If there are other bulldog owners in your area ask them
who they go to and at least ask your vet what his/her bulldog experience is.
BASIC TRAINING:
When dogs are in the wild, they live in a den. This makes them feel safe and secure. In your home,
his crate is his den. Crate training should start as soon as you bring your puppy home. He should be
encouraged to sleep and rest in the crate. He should be coaxed in, not forced. A small treat can be
used, and always give him lots of praise. At first, he may try to back out, or become very timid.
This is normal. Just give him time, and he'll go in on his own. In the beginning, don't close the door.
Let him go in and out as he pleases, until he's comfortable with this situation. Once he is
comfortable, restrain him with your hand in the doorway. Eventually, he will feel comfortable
enough to have the door closed. A puppy should be kept in his crate whenever not supervised. A
puppy instinctively knows not to "mess" in his crate, but he does need to go out every 2-4 hours
when he's young. Make sure you take him out frequently, and get him on a schedule. He will not be
able to destroy things, by chewing on them, when he is in his crate. Leave an approved chew toy in
the crate with him, so that he can satisfy his need to chew. Eventually, as the puppy grows into a
full grown dog, he will use his crate, with the door open, as his own little den.
Crate Training
One of the first things you should do is to begin crate training your dog. By having a dog crate
available, you have a place to keep your dog when you are away from home. This protects your
dog and your house from unwanted destruction. It also greatly helps with housetraining the puppy.
Get a dog crate that matches the adult size of your dog, not the puppy size. Place a towel or rug
inside the crate along with a bowl of water. Introduce your dog to the crate by placing food in the
crate and allowing the dog to enter and leave as it pleases. This will help him feel comfortable.
Never just lock a puppy in the crate. This will cause him to panic and the crate training process will
be set back months. As the puppy becomes more comfortable with the crate, begin closing the door
when he goes in. Do this for short periods of time and praise him while he is in there. As soon as he
begins to look agitated, open the door and let him leave. If a dog feels comfortable with the crate, he
will think of it as his den and will prefer to go there to lay down and sleep.
Housetraining
Housetraining is a dreaded but necessary part of having a puppy. The best way to do this is with a
crate. Place your puppy in the crate whenever you cannot physically be with your puppy and watch
him constantly. This includes when you sleep or are busy doing something in the house. Dogs have
a natural instict keeps them from wanting to soil there den(crate). They will soil there crate,
however, if you do not provide frequent chances for the puppy to relieve himself. As soon as you
remove the puppy from the crate, carry him directly outside to the place he is supposed to relieve
himself. Watch him very carefully. As soon as he looks like he is about to go, give a command like
"Go" or "Do it" or whatever you choose. Only say this command when it looks like he is going to
go so that he can associate this command with relieving himself. After the puppy goes outside,
bring him in and allow a short play time. Try to keep a record of each time the puppy relieves
himself. Whenever it is within thirty minutes of the next scheduled time to go, place the puppy back
in the crate. This will help teach the puppy to hold it until he can go outside. If your puppy has an
accident in the house, and he will, do not punish him unless you catch him in the act. If you do
catch him in the act, run to him, grab him by the back of the neck and say "NO!" forcefully. Then
take him immediately outside to his designated spot. The point is to scare him, not hurt him. If you
do not catch him in the act, simply put the puppy in the crate until the next scheduled time to go
outside, then clean up the mess.
Leash Training
Place a harness on the puppy as soon as you bring him home. He will probably scratch and bite at it
for a day or two, but don't remove it. He will eventually get used to it and calm down. Once he is
used to the collar, place a leash on him and let him drag it around the house for a few days. When
he seems to be comfortable with the leash, pick up the other end and just follow him around for a
while. After a few days, hold the leash and try to get him to follow you around for a while. When
he is comfortable with this, you should begin teaching the "heel" command.
them to remain healthy. Although it is important to give them a walk every day, try not to travel long
distances (around the block is good) and try not to walk the Bulldog in extreme heat and/or
humidity. English Bulldogs are very susceptible to overheating. Be sure to always have fresh water
available to them. English Bulldogs have a very small trachea (throat opening) and because of this it
is not uncommon for them to hack and cough after they run – this is due to a build up of
saliva/mucous that accumulates in their throat. Most times they cough it out and they are okay, but
if they continue to choke, you may want to squirt a little concentrated lemon juice into their throat.
The lemon juice breaks up the mucous allowing them to breathe better. Please don’t kennel an
English bulldog. English Bulldogs are people dogs – they love the company of humans and are
happiest when sleeping near and hanging around their master. Kenneling or caging for short periods
of time (housebreaking, running to the store, etc.) is okay – just not all the time. Treat and care for
them as if they were your own child. The more your English Bulldog is exposed to humans the
better his/her confidence and disposition will develop. You should never leave your bulldog
unattended for long periods in a backyard etc. This can be dangerous for your dog. They could get
into dangerous situations that you may not realize until it’s too late. Also English Bulldogs are
expensive making them prime candidates for thieves.
BRUSHING
Brushing is very important in the care of your English Bulldog. This removes dust, traces of dirt or
soil, and dead hair. It is recommended that they be brushed once a day. Since Bulldog’s have
sensitive skin and short fur, brushing the bulldog should be done with a soft bristled brush or comb.
It is preferred that using a brush with round plastic balls at the end of each bristle be used. Run the
brush against your own skin – if it hurts or stings, chances are it will feel the same to your bulldog.
BATHING
Puppies can be bathed when quite young (three months old). For dogs this age, the room
temperature must be 68 degrees Fahrenheit. Since English Bulldogs are usually indoor dogs, a bath
once every month or two is recommended. You should bathe your English bulldog in an indoor
bathtub. Avoid bathing your dog too much as this takes away the natural oils in the skin that the dog
needs to regulate its body temperature. Taking away these oils makes the dog susceptible to the cold
as well as parasites. It takes approximately 6 weeks for this natural oil to fully return to the skin and
coat, therefore, it is wise to use special dog shampoo that contains parasite repellents. Avoid
shampoo’s and toilet soaps made for humans. A PH balanced baby shampoo that does not sting the
eyes is okay if used only occasionally. When bathing your bulldog avoid getting the shampoo in
his/her eyes and ears. Cotton swabs in the ears can be used as a precaution. Use warm water (95
degrees F) and wet the dog from head to tail. Apply shampoo and begin washing in the neck area
first and work your way to the tail (this technique prevents fleas, if any, from traveling to the head
region). Washing under the Bulldog’s tail is also important, especially if the tail is a corkscrew
shape. If the dog’s tail is very tight, use a Q Tip to get under it. Washing between the dog’s toes is
also very important. Dirt and/or bacteria caught between the toes can cause an infection. Rinse off
the dog making sure to remove all shampoo. If necessary repeat the entire process. Once you have
finished rinsing the dog, without delay take the dog out of the bathtub and dry the dog off
vigorously with a warm towel. You can use a hair dryer (set to medium) to finish the drying
process if you prefer. If the weather is cold, please allow the dog to remain in the house for several
hours before allowing him/her to go outside. In hot weather, dry the dog as best you can and allow
the dog to shake themselves off outside.
FACE
Because of the structure of the bulldog’s face, special attention must be taken. Between the folds of
skin should be cleaned at least once a week. It is possible that an infection could occur between
these folds if dirt filled with bacteria linger. Washing with dog soap and water on a Q Tip or cotton
ball will do. Be sure to dry this area when done so that moisture is not allowed to be trapped – this
can also cause an infection or irritation. If an infection becomes apparent, treat with Sudocreme or
Neosporin. If it is just irritated, apply some Vaseline or better yet, Desitin.
If your Bulldog has a white or light colored face, tear stains may become a problem. This may be
attributed to the red coloring in the food he’s eating but this is not always the case, some bulldogs
produce red tears and some don’t, those with white faces will have these stains more than dark
colored faces. Several manufacturers make solutions (for example; Crystal Clear and Diamond Eye)
which can be applied using a Q tip or cotton swab to remove this staining. In my experience these
products only lighten the stains and don’t ever rid the stains unless you find the main cause of the
tear stains and solve that problem first, the stains only return and sometimes return worse than
before. You can do one of two possibilities to completely remove the tear stains;
1) A daily wipe with "Optrex" eye lotion wash will help. Optrex may be found at your local
Pharmacy or purchased through internet pharmaceutical stores. Optrex contains boric acid and
witch-hazel which will break up the stain and will not harm the dogs eyes as this solution is made
specifically for use in the eyes.
2) Or -- If the Optrex doesn't work, make and use this recipe;
* 2 tsp Milk Of Magnesia (white)
* 3 tsp Peroxide (Human Hair Type - 20 volume)
* 1 tsp Corn Starch
Add all the ingredients above and mix well. If you want to make the paste thicker, just add a little
more corn starch but be careful not to use too much that you turn the remedy into a powder. Only
make enough for one application. Clean and dry the stained area and apply this paste to the tear
stains using a clean cotton swab or Q tip and avoid getting it into the dog’s eyes - let dry overnight.
Wash off the paste and condition the area - dry with cloth. Lastly, apply a thin coat of one of the
following: Desitin, Boric Acid Ointment or Bag Balm to prevent a possible rash. Repeat this process
every day until the stains are gone. It is recommended that if the stains don’t disappear by the
second application; take a 1 day break before starting treatment again. This is just to give your dog a
break. Once the tear stains are removed you can limit the number of treatments down to once a
week depending on how fast the tear stains may return.
3) And -- Add 1 teaspoon of Apple Cider Vinegar per quart of water to dogs water bowl. This is
supposed to adjust the PH of the dog’s body and prevent staining from tears or saliva. This is also
said to discourage fleas. At first you may want to start with smaller doses of vinegar and work your
way up to the 1 teaspoon per quart - this adjusts the dog into accepting the water for drinking.
4) And/or-- Add Tylan (an amount equivalent to a match head) to dog’s food a few times a week.
This will keep the area dry and stain free.
EARS
Use a Q Tip with antiseptic to clean the inside of the bulldog’s ears. Never use soap and water. 60%
Alcohol or ether can also be used. This is important as the dog’s ears get very dirty. Only use the Q
Tip in areas that you can visually see, in other words, don’t shove the Q Tip way inside the dog’s
ear. This cleaning should be done at least once a week. Look for ear mites and ticks when cleaning
the ears. If ear mites are present, you will need to treat the dog with Miticide. Ticks can be removed
by dripping drops of alcohol on them. Visit a Veterinarian if you don’t want to remove these
parasites yourself.
NOSE:
Occasionally the Bulldog’s nose may dry out. To prevent this, rub a little Vaseline on his/her nose. I
do this once a week whether they need it or not.
PAWS
Clean and check your dog’s paws often. Make sure there is no gravel lodged in the pad, no thorns
between the toes, and no chewing gum stuck on the sole of the paw. If you see that your dog
spends hours licking his/her paw, check the paw to see the problem. Remove the cause of the
discomfort, or if you see a cyst and/or infection between toes, take the dog to a veterinarian.
TEETH
Check the condition of your dog’s teeth once a week. If you like, you can clean the dog’s teeth
with a damp cloth soaked in baking soda solution or lemon juice. There are actual toothpastes on the
market made especially for dogs. I found that you really don’t need to brush your dog’s teeth as
long as you supply them with things to chew on; chew toys, steak bones, rawhide bones, etc. Their
teeth will naturally cut and clean if you do this. Feeding your dog dry food also helps. If you feed
your dog wet food ONLY you may want to consider brushing the dog’s teeth.
NAILS
As needed, clip the dog’s toe nails. If they are left unclipped, accidental injury to others and to the
bulldog may occur when the dog plays etc. If your bulldog walks on hard surfaces, such as
sidewalks every day, its nails will be worn down naturally. If your dog does not walk on hard
surfaces (carpets etc.) or seldom goes for walks outside, make sure the dog’s nails do not grow to
long. Clipping nails is not as simple as it sounds. There is a risk of bleeding if not done right. Be
sure not to cut the quick (this is the vein that runs up inside the nail from the toe). If your dog has
white nails, the quick is easy to see and you can trim the nails with clippers. Cut the nail
approximately 2 millimeters above the quick.
If your dog’s nails are dark, seeing the quick will be difficult, therefore, make several small cuts
until you see a small black spot appear in the center of the nail and then stop cutting. If by chance
you accidentally cut the quick you can use silver nitrate to stop the bleeding. Take your bulldog to a
Dog Groomer or Veterinarian if you are uncomfortable doing this task yourself. If the dog’s nails
are grown curling past the pads of the toes, then they need to be clipped. Be sure to always check
the Dew Claw as this nail never actually touches the ground; therefore, this nail always needs to be
cut at some point. If you are using a guillotine type clipper always clip the nail with the cutting blade
facing away from the paw and the nameplate and screw toward the paw. Place your bulldog on a
table to clip his/her nails. Dogs tend not to struggle in this situation, making the clipping process
much easier.
Many medications can be administered by you at home. Just be sure that all medications are cleared
by your vet and that you provide the correct doses. To administer pills to your Bulldog, put your
hand under the Bulldog’s chin and place your index finger and your thumb on opposite sides of
his/her mouth. Firmly press the dog’s lips against the teeth. This technique will force the dog to
open its mouth. Once the mouth is open, place the pill on the back of the tongue and then quickly
close the dog’s mouth. Hold the mouth shut and massage the bulldog’s neck. This helps to ensure
the pill gets swallowed. I find it easier to just wrap a morsel of meat or processed cheese around the
pill and let the bulldog eat it on his/her own. To administer liquid medications, the same technique
above is used with the exception that the liquid should be squirted on the tongue by use of a syringe
(without needle of course).
DE-WORMING
Your dog can be infected with worms. Some worms you may visually see in your dog’s feces. The
most common are Hookworms and Roundworms. Others you may not see such as Heartworms
and Tapeworms. It is important to rid and/or protect your dog from these worms. There are several
worming medications on the market that will take care of all these worms. Of all the worms,
Heartworms are the most dangerous to your dog. Heartworms wrap themselves around the dog’s
heart and can eventually cause death. Heartworm medication must be prescribed by a veterinarian.
The easiest thing to do is to get the medication that will not only destroy and prevent Heartworms
but all the worms. Be sure to give your bulldog this worming medication as prescribed all year
round for the life of your dog.
FLEAS AND TICKS
Fleas and ticks are one of the most common of parasites that can hurt your dog. Both fleas and
ticks are blood suckers and depending on the size of your dog a large infestation of one or both of
these parasites can make your dog ill and even cause death. Your veterinarian can provide you with
medication that can rid and/or prevent your dog of fleas and ticks. Pet shops and stores selling pet
supplies also sell over the counter flea and tick products – collars, liquids and sprays. Although
some of these work well, they tend not to last very long so you may want to consider what type of
product or medication you may want to use.
Brewers Yeast with garlic is also a deterrent. These tablets tend to ward off fleas and ticks because
of the garlic in the blood stream. The Brewers yeast is good for the dog's coat. Most dogs love the
taste of them and will eat the tablets without a problem. Give 1 tablet per 10 pounds of body weight
per day. Brewers Yeast tablets are safe and can be used in conjunction with any other flea
medication or repellent you are using.
DIARRHEA
Your bulldog may experience diarrhea. Diarrhea is not a disease but possibly a symptom of many
other diseases. Most of the time diarrhea is not serious. Usually diarrhea is brought on by eating
garbage or some other nasty morsel. Other minor causes are stomach or intestinal viruses. You can
usually treat your pet at home for this type of diarrhea. Time is usually the best cure, but you can
give your dog a medicine such as Kaopectate. Give your dog 0.5 to 1.0 ml per pound of body
weight every 2 to 6 hours. You will need to make sure that your bulldog does not get dehydrated.
You can give him/her a sports drink in his water dish to guard against loss of nutrients. Do not feed
your dog any table scraps or treats while he/she is suffering from diarrhea.
Your dog’s diarrhea may be serious if any of the following additional symptoms are present.
* Vomiting
* Dehydration
* Loss of appetite * Abdominal pain
* Bloody diarrhea * Watery diarrhea
If the diarrhea is occurring in conjunction with one or more of the symptoms above, you should
bring your bulldog to your veterinarian for a diagnosis.
At first, your dog will not like being washed, Q tipped, nail clipped, and medicated, but if you stick
to a schedule and do these things often, your dog will grow to accept these as his daily life and you
will not have a problem with him/her.
ITCHY SKIN
Probably an allergy, possibly the food you are feeding - If this cannot be controlled by diet then you
may need to see your vet.
CHERRY EYE
Where the gland under the third eyelid protrudes and looks rather like a cherry in the corner of the
eye. Your vet will need to remove the gland (some prefer to tuck). Occasionally removal of the
gland causes dry eye. However, most vets today can remove the cherry eye leaving just a small
section of the tear gland to prevent the dry eye from occurring. This small tear gland usually creates
more tears to compensate thus never causing the dry eye. Other than the antibiotic cream given to
you by the vet after removal , do not apply drops of saline thinking you are helping the dog from
getting dry eye. In actuality you may be driving the eye to dependency of the drops and you will
have to give the drops for the rest of the dogs life. Allow the small tear gland that is left to
compensate. I recommend the removal of the cherry eye rather than tucking (tucking is basically
where the cherry eye is stitched behind the eyelid). My experience is that 75% of all tucking
becomes unstitched during play etc thus bringing the cherry back out.
ENTROPIAN
Where the eyelashes have turned inwards and are rubbing against the eye, again surgery may be
required. Don’t confuse this with stray eyelashes that are just growing astray, these can be plucked
with tweezers (you may prefer your vet to do this). E>ntropian needs surgery - if left the in-turned
lashes will scratch the cornea and the result will be a severely damaged eye, at worst blindness or
loss of eye.
CONJUNCTIVITIS
You will need to obtain a cream from your vet to apply to the affected eye, repeated bouts of
conjunctivitis can cause the dog to retract the eyeball which in severe cases can lead to entropion.
HEAD SHAKES
Something like a fit, but effecting just the head, which will involuntary shake from side to side,
sometimes violently enough to cause their lips to flap. This can be linked to stress which may cause
the blood sugar level to drop enough to trigger the head shake. Giving some glucose or honey to
bring the blood sugar level back up should help although distraction often stops the shaking. If you
are unable to link the attack to a specific stressful incident then your bulldog may be suffering and is
advisable that you get your vet to check him over. Note, many vets are unfamiliar with this breeds
specific condition and some breeders attribute them to a lack of calcium as they are common in the
pregnant or nursing bitch. However please do not give calcium under normal circumstances as this
could effect the bone formation of your puppy.
DEVELOPMENT PROBLEMS
Because of the bulldog’s rapid growth it is very important that you keep play and exercise properly
managed in the first 9 months, early joint damage could be permanent and may lead to osteoarthritis,
irregular growth in the bones could lead to joint deformities. Hip/elbow displaysia is genetic but can
be encouraged via environmental factors (ie: slidey floors, jumping etc). Fairly often puppy limping
will disappear at maturity and is usually due to the rapid growth spurts or an incorrect diet. Diet
plays a large role in bone development, because of the rapid growth of the bulldog it is wise to feed
your puppy adult food (mini chunks) to lower the protein intake. Many dog food manufacturers
recommend that puppy stays on the puppy mix for the first year, but the bulldogs bones don't need
such a high protein intake as it speeds up an already rapid growth and can lead to development
deformities in some cases. The same applies to calcium, don't give puppy any extra calcium - find a
good well balanced dog food and stick to it.
You can help your dog through his puppy limping or Arthritis with a natural product called
"SeaTone" (Extract of Green Lipped Mussel). These can be bought at any Pharmacy. Buy the super
strength and give 1 or 2 capsules per day depending on the severity of the limping, you can either
hide the capsule in a treat or sprinkle over their food (it smells fishy, so they love it). SeaTone is a
natural anti-inflammatory and will help rebuild any defects in the bone. We give this product to our
adult arthritic dogs and have never had the need to use a prescribed arthritis drug yet. We have also
given it to young pups going through their "stiff" stages and always give it to any dog that is
recovering from joint surgery (ie: *Ruptured Cruciate Ligament). Remember though, that any form
of limping should be checked out by your vet, there are many many things that can cause limping
(see above) although in most cases "SeaTone" will help.
ELONGATED SOFT PALATE AND OTHER AIRWAY DISORDERS:
Every bulldog has an elongated soft palate, this is because of the shape of their heads (ie:
brachycephalic - short nosed). In most cases this causes nothing more than snoring, but in severe
cases will cause your bulldog difficulty in breathing. Heat and exercise will cause loud, gurgly
breathing, (commonly known as "roaring") and your bulldog may appear to be "lazy". The severity
can range from loud breathing when excited, during/after exercise to total exercise intolerance,
regurgitation of food to permanent breathing difficulties. The condition can be corrected with
surgery and you need to be sure that the vet you chose to carry out this surgery totally understand
brachycephalic breeds.
MANGE
TYPES OF MANGE,
DEMODECTIC MANGE, (also called "Red Mange")
Is caused by a microscopic mite called Demodex canis. All dogs raised normally by their mothers possess this mite as mites are transferred
from mother to pup via cuddling during the first few days of life. (After the pup is older it is unable
to pick up demodex mites. Puppies raised by hand, do not ever get demodex mites.) For some
reason, conditions change in certain dogs to allow demodex mites to "gain the upper hand;" the
mites proliferate and can cause serious skin disease. Mites are not transmitted to people or other
dogs except from mother dog to pup as described. Demodectic mange (unlike Sarcoptic mange) is
not contagious.Mites live inside hair follicles - a difficult place for miticides (chemicals that kill
mites) to reach. Mites are a normal residents of dog skin; it is only in some individual dogs that
mites cause problems . DEMODICOSIS -- THE DISEASE ITSELF
Demodectic mange -- also called "demodicosis"-- has three forms:
FORM #1: LOCALIZED
Usually a red, scaly, well-circumscribed lesion on the face or forelegs is present. It generally goes
away on its own. Goodwinol ointment, an insecticide, may be used daily to control localized
demodicosis. Hair regrowth should be evident after about a month of treatment; however, some
localized cases appear "destined" to become generalized and no treatment will prevent this from
occurring.
When ointment is used, rubbing the medication on the area may break off the weaker hairs at the
margin of the lesion. The lesion may thus appear to get larger at first. Antibacterial gels are also
used against localized demodicosis and associated skin infections. Often it is best not to treat this
condition and to simply allow it to resolve on its own
FORM #2: GENERALIZED
The entire dog is affected with patchy fur, skin infections, bald, scaly skin. Most generalized
demodicosis starts as localized demodicosis.
* ADULT ONSET-- Most demodicosis occurs in young dogs. An older dog should not get
deodicosis unless it has an underlying problem with its immune system, possibly even cancer. A
veterinarian should be consulted regarding possible primary diseases.
* JUVENILE ONSET -- 30-50% of dogs under age 1 year recover spontaneously from generalized
demodicosis without any form of treatment. Usually treatment is recommended, though, to facilitate
recovery.
FORM #3: DEMODECTIC PODODERMATITIS
This condition represents demodectic mange confined to the paws. Bacterial infectious usually
accompany this condition. Often as generalized demodicosis is treated, the foot is the last
stronghold of the mite. Old English Sheepdogs and Shar-peis tend to get severe forms of this
condition. The infection can be so deep that biopsy is needed to find the mites and make the
diagnosis.
STRESS AND GENERALIZED DEMODECTIC MANGE
Physiological stress is an important factor determining the degree of severity of demodectic mange.
1. Females should be spayed as soon as the disease is controlled. Coming into heat, hormone fluxes,
and pregnancy are very stressful. Also, predisposition to demodicosis is hereditary and should not
be passed on.
2. The dog should be fed a reputable brand of dog food so as to avoid any nutritionally related
problems.
3. Keep the pet parasite-free. Worms are irritants that the pet need not deal with and fleas may
exacerbate the itchiness and skin infection.
4. Keep up the pet's vaccinations.
5. The mites themselves cause suppression of the immune system so the pet needs every advantage
to stay healthy.
PROGNOSIS
The younger the dog, the better the chance of cure. In many cases of adult-onset demodicosis, the
disease is controlled by dips and baths but cure is not always possible. Some cases can never be
controlled.
TREATMENT OF CHOICE -- IVERMECTIN
Ivermectin is a broad spectrum anti-parasite medication generally used for food animals and horses.
It is licensed for use in dogs and cats as a heartworm preventive and as a topical ear mite therapy at
this time thus the use of this medication to treat demodicosis is not approved by the FDA. When
ivermectin was a new drug it was hoped that it could be used against demodectic mange mites. At
first it was found ineffective but later it was determined that daily doses are needed (most other
parasites can be controlled with wormings spaced several weeks apart.) Ivermectin is inexpensive
relative to Milbemycin and involves no labor intensive bathing. It DOES, however, taste terrible if
given orally (it may be necessary for the owner to learn how to give ivermectin as an injectable
treatment.)
SARCOPTIC MANGE (also called "Scabies")
Is the name for the skin disease caused by infection
with the Sarcoptes scabei mite. Mites are not insects; instead they are more closely related to
spiders. They are microscopic and cannot be seen with the naked eye. Adult Sarcoptes scabei mites
live 3-4 weeks in the host’s skin. After mating, the female burrows into the skin depositing 3-4 eggs
in the tunnel behind her. The eggs hatch in 3-10 days producing a larva which, in turn, moves about
on the skin surface eventually molting into a "nymphal" stage and finally into an adult. The adults
move on the surface of the skin where they mate and the cycle begins again with the female
burrowing and laying eggs.
The motion of the mite in and on the skin is extremely itchy. Further, the presence of mites and
their eggs generates a massive allergic response in the skin which is even more itchy. Mites prefer
hairless skin thus leaving the ear flaps, elbows and abdomen at highest risk for the red, scaley itchy
skin that characterizes sarcoptic mange. It should be noted that this pattern of itching is similar to
that found with airborne allergies (atopy) as well as with food allergies. Frequently, before
attempting to sort out allergies, a veterinarian will simply treat a patient for sarcoptic mange as a
precaution. It is very easy to be led down the wrong path (pursuing allergy aggressively) if one
considers sarcoptic mange an unusual or unlikely possibility.
As the infection progresses, eventually most of the dog's body will be involved. Classically, though,
the picture begins on the ears (especially the ear margins), the elbows, and abdomen.
The term "Scabies" refers to mite infestations by either Sarcoptes scabei or other mite species
closely related to Sarcoptes scabei. While Sarcoptes scabei can infect humans and cats, it tends not
to persist on these hosts.
DIAGNOSIS
When an animal with sarcoptic mange scratches itself, it breaks open the tunnels that the mites have
burrowed into and the mites are killed (though the itch persists due to toxins in the skin). The result
is that the mites can be very difficult to confirm by skin scraping tests. (Probably mites are
confirmed in 50% or fewer of sarcoptic mange cases).
Since negative test results do not rule out mite infection, a "Maybe Mange" test is frequently
performed. This consists simply of treating for sarcoptic mange and observing for resolution of the
signs within 2-4 weeks. Of course, if mite presence is confirmed by skin scraping, then one knows
immediately the cause of the itching and need not be concerned about allergy possibilities or other
diseases and the condition can be addressed with confidence.
BIOPSY - Mange mites are rarely seen on a skin biopsy sample, though, if the sample is read out by
a pathologist who specializes in skin, the type of inflammation seen in the sample can be highly
suggestive of sarcoptic mange. This is an example of a skin disease where it makes a difference
whether the pathologist reading the sample specializes in reading skin samples
TREATMENT
While sarcoptic mange is difficult to diagnose definitively, it is fairly easy to treat and a number of
choices are available.
DIPPING - Anti-bacterial or anti-itch shampoos precede one of several anti-mite dips. Paramite dip
(an organophosphate), Mitaban dip (Amitraz), and Lime-Sulfur dips given weekly are usually
effective. Disease typically resolves within one month. Dips are often used in combination with one
of the other treatments listed below.
IVERMECTIN - This is one of the most effective treatments against Sarcoptes scabei yet is is off-
label as far as the FDA is concerned. There are several protocols due to the very long activity of
this drug in the body. Typically an injection is given either weekly or every two weeks in 1-4 doses.
In most cases this treatment is safe and effective but some individuals have a mutation which makes
ivermectin very toxic at the doses used to kill mites. These individuals are usually of the Collie
family: Collies, Shetland Sheepdogs, and Australian Shepherds are classically affected. There is now
a test that can determine if any dog has the mutation that makes ivermectin use dangerous.
Selamectin is an ivermectin derivative recently marketed for the control of fleas, roundworms,
hookworms, ticks, ear mites and sarcoptic mange mites. Normal monthly use of this product
should prevent a sarcoptic mange problem but to clear an actual infection studies show an extra
dose is usually needed after 2 weeks for reliable results.
GAS
You can sometimes avoid this with diet. Nutro food has almost totally eliminated the gas problem,
but each dog is different. Charcoal Bonio biscuits are great for a windy dog as the charcoal will help
soak up the internal gasses.
Veterinarians,
Please try to find a vet that understands the bulldog, this breed is a hard breed to anaesthetize, so be
sure that the vet you have chosen is aware of this fact and try to only have your bulldog put under
when absolutely necessary. Bulldogs also have very shallow joint sockets and a vet that is unfamiliar
with the breed may misdiagnose these as joint problems. Almost every Bulldog will have a slightly
elongated soft palate which is why they snore, this is because of the shape of their heads and
because the entire throat is being stuffed into a space that is too small in comparison to other breeds
- in severe cases it will restrict your bulldogs ability to breathe and will need surgery (see above
ailments) , but if your dog is comfortable then it’s best to leave it be, so be aware - if your vet
informs you that he needs to resection the soft palate this may not be the case at all. Bulldogs with
severe soft palate problems will overheat easily, find it very difficult to cope with any form of
exercise and may regurgitate their food. If there are other bulldog owners in your area ask them
who they go to and at least ask your vet what his/her bulldog experience is.
BASIC TRAINING:
When dogs are in the wild, they live in a den. This makes them feel safe and secure. In your home,
his crate is his den. Crate training should start as soon as you bring your puppy home. He should be
encouraged to sleep and rest in the crate. He should be coaxed in, not forced. A small treat can be
used, and always give him lots of praise. At first, he may try to back out, or become very timid.
This is normal. Just give him time, and he'll go in on his own. In the beginning, don't close the door.
Let him go in and out as he pleases, until he's comfortable with this situation. Once he is
comfortable, restrain him with your hand in the doorway. Eventually, he will feel comfortable
enough to have the door closed. A puppy should be kept in his crate whenever not supervised. A
puppy instinctively knows not to "mess" in his crate, but he does need to go out every 2-4 hours
when he's young. Make sure you take him out frequently, and get him on a schedule. He will not be
able to destroy things, by chewing on them, when he is in his crate. Leave an approved chew toy in
the crate with him, so that he can satisfy his need to chew. Eventually, as the puppy grows into a
full grown dog, he will use his crate, with the door open, as his own little den.
Crate Training
One of the first things you should do is to begin crate training your dog. By having a dog crate
available, you have a place to keep your dog when you are away from home. This protects your
dog and your house from unwanted destruction. It also greatly helps with housetraining the puppy.
Get a dog crate that matches the adult size of your dog, not the puppy size. Place a towel or rug
inside the crate along with a bowl of water. Introduce your dog to the crate by placing food in the
crate and allowing the dog to enter and leave as it pleases. This will help him feel comfortable.
Never just lock a puppy in the crate. This will cause him to panic and the crate training process will
be set back months. As the puppy becomes more comfortable with the crate, begin closing the door
when he goes in. Do this for short periods of time and praise him while he is in there. As soon as he
begins to look agitated, open the door and let him leave. If a dog feels comfortable with the crate, he
will think of it as his den and will prefer to go there to lay down and sleep.
Housetraining
Housetraining is a dreaded but necessary part of having a puppy. The best way to do this is with a
crate. Place your puppy in the crate whenever you cannot physically be with your puppy and watch
him constantly. This includes when you sleep or are busy doing something in the house. Dogs have
a natural instict keeps them from wanting to soil there den(crate). They will soil there crate,
however, if you do not provide frequent chances for the puppy to relieve himself. As soon as you
remove the puppy from the crate, carry him directly outside to the place he is supposed to relieve
himself. Watch him very carefully. As soon as he looks like he is about to go, give a command like
"Go" or "Do it" or whatever you choose. Only say this command when it looks like he is going to
go so that he can associate this command with relieving himself. After the puppy goes outside,
bring him in and allow a short play time. Try to keep a record of each time the puppy relieves
himself. Whenever it is within thirty minutes of the next scheduled time to go, place the puppy back
in the crate. This will help teach the puppy to hold it until he can go outside. If your puppy has an
accident in the house, and he will, do not punish him unless you catch him in the act. If you do
catch him in the act, run to him, grab him by the back of the neck and say "NO!" forcefully. Then
take him immediately outside to his designated spot. The point is to scare him, not hurt him. If you
do not catch him in the act, simply put the puppy in the crate until the next scheduled time to go
outside, then clean up the mess.
Leash Training
Place a harness on the puppy as soon as you bring him home. He will probably scratch and bite at it
for a day or two, but don't remove it. He will eventually get used to it and calm down. Once he is
used to the collar, place a leash on him and let him drag it around the house for a few days. When
he seems to be comfortable with the leash, pick up the other end and just follow him around for a
while. After a few days, hold the leash and try to get him to follow you around for a while. When
he is comfortable with this, you should begin teaching the "heel" command.
Puppy Love